Evidence-based Skincare Routine for Mature Skin

For about a year now, the skincare routine that I used to swear by suddenly stopped working. My skin has always been far from perfect. But suddenly, it felt like my skin was staging a rebellion! Wrinkles came in droves, my melasma worsened, and my pores seemed to expand to the size of Mount Pinatubo's crater. The old acne scars and skin roughness became more evident visually and when I stroked my face. Even wounds on my body were taking longer to heal.

It hit me like a ton of bricks – I had officially joined the "mature skin" club. But let me tell you, I wasn't about to let my skin go without a fight! This realization sparked a determination in me to dive deep into the world of skincare, skincare actives, and ultimately, skincare formulation.

As I've immersed myself in research, I want to share with you the science-backed skincare routine I've developed for mature skin. Here's what I've learned works best:

1. Gentle Cleansing: Our skin barrier becomes more delicate with age. I now use a mild, oil-based pH-balanced cleanser to maintain skin barrier function [1] [2] [3].
2. Hydration is Key: I've fallen in love with hyaluronic acid and glycerin in serums and creams. They're fantastic for boosting moisture retention in our thirsty mature skin [4] [5].
3. Antioxidants are Your Friends: I never skip my morning vitamin C serum now. It fights those pesky free radicals and promotes collagen production – exactly what we need! [6]
4. Brightening & Anti-aging: I use a cream with Vitamin Cs, Niacinamide, Panthenol and NAG (N-Acetyl Glucosamine) with other skin brightening actives (i.e. alpha arbutin, kojic acid, licorice root extract). This powerhouse combo helps brighten skin, reduce hyperpigmentation, and improve skin texture- problems common in matured skin. [7]
5. Retinoids and Plant-based Retinol Alternatives for the Win: At night, I apply tretinoin (any retinoids are beneficial, but it will have a different potencies). After all, tretinoin is the gold standard in anti-aging skincare. Let me backtrack. I have used tretinoin on and off over the years and have worked my way up to 0.1%. But last year, I stopped because it had become very irritating for my skin. I started using bakuchiol, natural retinol analogue, 2 months ago and it has improved my skin. I recently read a scientific journal article that states that adding tretinoin while using bakuchiol can mitigate its side effects and improve efficacy. This indeed has been my experience. When I resumed tretinoin 0.1%, albeit only 3x a week, I did not experience any irritation.  It It’s been a game-changer for improving skin cell turnover and reducing fine lines. [8] [9]
6. Moisturize, Moisturize, Moisturize: I seal everything in with a rich, emollient cream or face oil. It's like a big drink of water for our skin barrier, which has become increasingly compromised as we age. This final step is crucial because our skin's natural ability to retain moisture and protect itself from environmental stressors diminishes over time, leading to increased dryness, sensitivity, and vulnerability to damage. [10] [11]
7. Sun Protection is Non-Negotiable: I've learned the hard way that sun damage is cumulative. I can imagine how much damage my skin has incurred after being baked by the tropical sun from childhood way into my 30s.  Now, I never leave the house without applying a broad-spectrum SPF 30+ sunscreen, rain or shine [12] [13] [14].

Remember, CONSISTENCY is key. Give your skin time to adjust to new products, and always patch test. It's been a journey, but I'm already seeing improvements. Here's to aging gracefully and keeping our skin healthy!

Has anyone else experienced a sudden change in their skin? What's working for you?

References:

 [1] Mijaljica D, Spada F, Harrison IP. Skin Cleansing without or with Compromise: Soaps and Syndets. Molecules. 2022 Mar 21;27(6):2010. doi: 10.3390/molecules27062010. PMID: 35335373; PMCID: PMC8954092.

[2] Li Z. Modern Mild Skin Cleansing. J. Cosmet. Dermatol. Sci. Appl. 2020;10:85–98. doi: 10.4236/jcdsa.2020.102009.

[3] Walters R.M., Mao G., Gunn E.T., Hornby S. Cleansing Formulations That Respect Skin Barrier Integrity. Dermatol. Res. Pr. 2012;2012:495917. doi: 10.1155/2012/495917.

 [4] Pavicic T, Gauglitz GG, Lersch P, Schwach-Abdellaoui K, Malle B, Korting HC, Farwick M. Efficacy of cream-based novel formulations of hyaluronic acid of different molecular weights in anti-wrinkle treatment. J Drugs Dermatol. 2011 Sep;10(9):990-1000. PMID: 22052267.

[5]Bogdanowicz P, Bensadoun P, Noizet M, Béganton B, Philippe A, Alvarez-Georges S, Doat G, Tourette A, Bessou-Touya S, Lemaitre JM, Duplan H. Senomorphic activity of a combination of niacinamide and hyaluronic acid: correlation with clinical improvement of skin aging. Sci Rep. 2024 Jul 15;14(1):16321. doi: 10.1038/s41598-024-66624-7. PMID: 39009698; PMCID: PMC11251187.

[6] Pullar JM, Carr AC, Vissers MCM. The Roles of Vitamin C in Skin Health. Nutrients. 2017 Aug 12;9(8):866. doi: 10.3390/nu9080866. PMID: 28805671; PMCID: PMC5579659. [4] Bissett, D.L., et al. (2007). Dermatologic Surgery, 33(s1), S45-S51.

[7] Leyden JJ, Shergill B, Micali G, Downie J, Wallo W. Natural options for the management of hyperpigmentation. J Eur Acad Dermatol Venereol. 2011 Oct;25(10):1140-5. doi: 10.1111/j.1468-3083.2011.04130.x. Epub 2011 May 31. PMID: 21623927. [6] Mukherjee, S., et al. (2006). Clinical Interventions in Aging, 1(4), 327-348.

[8] Mambwe B, Mellody KT, Kiss O, O’Connor C, Bell M, Watson REB, et al. Cosmetic retinoid use in photoaged skin: A review of the compounds, their use and mechanisms of action. Int J Cosmet Sci. 2024; 00: 1–13. 

[9] Park, SJ. A Comprehensive Review of Topical Bakuchiol for the Treatment of Photoaging (2022). https://www.jintegrativederm.org/article/38079

[10] Lin TK, Zhong L, Santiago JL. Anti-Inflammatory and Skin Barrier Repair Effects of Topical Application of Some Plant Oils. Int J Mol Sci. 2017 Dec 27;19(1):70. doi: 10.3390/ijms19010070. PMID: 29280987; PMCID: PMC5796020.

[11] Rajkumar J, Chandan N, Lio P, Shi V. The Skin Barrier and Moisturization: Function, Disruption, and Mechanisms of Repair. Skin Pharmacol Physiol. 2023;36(4):174-185. doi: 10.1159/000534136. Epub 2023 Sep 15. PMID: 37717558.

[12] Passeron T, Lim HW, Goh CL, Kang HY, Ly F, Morita A, Ocampo Candiani J, Puig S, Schalka S, Wei L, Dréno B, Krutmann J. Photoprotection according to skin phototype and dermatoses: practical recommendations from an expert panel. J Eur Acad Dermatol Venereol. 2021 Jul;35(7):1460-1469. doi: 10.1111/jdv.17242. Epub 2021 May 4. PMID: 33764577; PMCID: PMC8252523.